Birthday!!!

Happy happy birthday to Caaaaaaaaaaaitliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin.
23 years old. Wow. WOW. And I'll be home in, like, less than 20 hours. Woooow.

I spent my last days in Christchurch living at my friend Hannah's house. All week it was POURING rain. It really felt like winter too, it got so cold! Wore my gloves and hat and anything warm I could get my hands on. When I could feel my hands. I spent my mornings in the central library reading and just avoiding going outside. The Avon River was basically flooded. I hated staying inside so long, so eventually I would venture out into the wet and gloom trying to find things to do.

My friend Joana was staying in Chch too, and we decided to see the movie Boy, by the same guy that did Eagle Vs. Shark, and I really enjoyed it. It's a coming of age tale about a Maori family living on the East Coast in the '80s, just after Michael Jackson's Thriller came out. If the movie goes to America (or maybe it came and went?) I reccommend seeing it, it's a really great look into the Maori small-town lifestyle and mentality. And you get to hear the accent, which I'm sure I will miss coming home...

On Wednesday I wanted to celebrate my birthday, effectively a day early, so that I wouldn't have to worry about going to the airport straight from a celebration. Basically everything fell through because when Hannah and I got back to hers and finished eating dinner (we made fajitas! sooooo good! I'm so looking forward to having burritos again!!!) it was just too cold and wet outside, and Hannah had work the next day, and it's a 30min walk into town. We all just didn't feel like braving the night. I felt really lame, but didn't think it was the end of the world because I could just celebrate my birthday on the actual day.

So Thursday I turned 23 (woo!) and met Joana and her boyfriend Simon for lunch, and we took our time because, surprise, it was raining, and it was warm in the restaraunt. Joana gave me a really awesome canvas bag with kiwis on it - which is really cool since we worked on the kiwi orchard together - and wrote a really lovely note on a picture of the beach near Opotiki where we had spent one afternoon. She also bought me a cookie from one of her favorite shops, which definitely made my heart start pumping with the insane sugar rush. It was really hard to say goodbye because Jo and I really connected and we've run into each other so many times in the last few months that it's just hard to believe we won't see each other anymore. It's probably why I didn't cry- it's just too hard to believe.

The only reason I broke away was that my friend Pina, from the vineyards, was also in town and had been texting me to come to her hostel because she made me a cake. It was 4pm by this point, and I was going to meet Hannah for a drink after she finished work at 5, so I was a little hesitant to see Pina because I was worried about the time. I had asked if she wanted to join me and Hannah in town, but she said it would be better for me to come to the hostel because of the cake. She also said that there was another surprise for me, and I figured she must have gotten me a present. It was really sweet, especially because we weren't best of friends at Copper Beech (vineyard hostel). It sounded like she just put some effort into my birthday (and had remembered it when I was in Chch before, at the rugby game, like she had put it into her planner and was all excited for it) so I thought it would be good to drop it. Plus, she was always baking in Copper Beech, and it was really sweet that she made me a cake, so I texted back that I would drop by but only for a little while in order to meet Hannah on time. When I finally got to the hostel (and it was FREEZING outside, was very glad to be in the warm) it was closer to 4:30 and I thought I would only be able to stay for 15 minutes before having to walk to meet Hannah, and it made me sad, because it would be too short, but I figured a small visit was better than none at all.

I asked the desk manager where I could find Pina, and he went to get her for me. I love this girl, she comes bounding out all smiling and gives me a big hug. I was flooded with affection for her, and immediately glad I came over. Pina is overly excited, beckoning me through the kitchen and into the dining room, I'm guessing just because she wants to dig into the cake. I open the door and suddenly

HAPPY BIRTHDAY CAITLIN!!!!!!!!!!!

It's a huge crew of Germans from Copper Beech throwing me a surprise party!!! I had NO idea, they completely surprised me, and I felt so loved. I didn't think that I would get to see these lovely people again, and it was just the best present I could have asked for. I mean, they were planning this party for over a month, I think since I left Blenheim, and these guys drove and hitch hiked from all over New Zealand just to be with me! How sweet is that??? I really meant it when I said Copper Beech was like a family, and it definitely felt like a reunion seeing all of them there in pink princess birthday hats and blowing party horns. I almost started crying, I was so touched.

We catch up over Pina's brownie cake, and I couldn't have been happier celebrating with all of these familiar faces. It's so crazy because I've literally said goodbye to some of the girls 5 times since working with them in Opotiki, then departing in Gisbourne after seeing the East Cape together, then meeting/departing in Wellington, working together on the vineyards in Blenheim, then running into each other in Wanaka then departing in Christchurch... and then again in Christchurch!! I'm certain that we will stay in touch forever, because so much of my time here has been spent with these girls. So, I guess while I didn't get to see every single part of New Zealand, or go on all the walks, or feel a little regret for not travelling to another part of the world before coming home, I've truly had a wonderful time because I've made really good friends. That, and if I ever want to go to Germany, I'll be set, because it seems I've befriended the entire country...

Hannah treats me to dinner (and the Germans require that I wear my pink party hat out, and some guy on the street commented "That'll keep off the rain!") and I realize that she's one of the first people I met in New Zealand, all the way back in Auckland at BASE. And we basically saw each other once a month for at least a day since February. Essentially Hannah has been at every step in my New Zealand travels, which was so cool that we could say we tracked each others' progress over the months. It was even harder to say goodbye to Hannah because she's the person I've known the longest and it really feels like I'll just meet up with her again next month. I just had to tear myself away and try not to think about how sad it really is that I won't see so many of these wonderful people again... That's what I'll miss more than anything about NZ.

After returning to the hostel for drinks and general merriment, I get to the airport at 5 am (and didn't sleep, which I was hoping I would, but oh well). I made my flight and slept in chunks. I didn't expect to get our own tvs because it's such a short flight, but it IS international and they even fed us, fancy! I wasn't really expecting United Airlines to be so nice. I'm on them again for my main flight back to SFO, so while it's not Qantas it's a pretty decent substitute. But now I've got 3 hours before my plane even boards. Luckily there's free internet at the Sydney Airport...

My Last Month

So much has happened since my last post, let's give a quick overview, shall we? Wish I could give even more detail, do it all more justice...

~ Swimming with Dusky dolphins in Kaikoura on the east coast was absolutely incredible! We had a very clear morning with calm seas and the dolphins were very close by, only a 20 minute boat ride with minimal rocking. Our group was really big, about 20 swimmers plus people just doing the watching, so we had to split into two groups for the swimming. I don't know how long I actually spent in the water, but with the wet suit on I was surprised that I didn't feel cold at all and wanted a lot longer with the dolphins. I mean, I get into the water and all of a sudden there are TONS underneath me. I love their dark markings, they swirl and remind me of the waves of the ocean. We're encouraged to sing to the dolphins, but mostly all I can do is make odd noises with the snorkel in my mouth. It seems to work initially to entice the dolphins closer (they're completely wild, and so our guides tell us that it's our job to entertain THEM!) I circled with a few of them, looking into their eyes and feeling very connected with nature. There were also two seals in the water, and they were super graceful and beautiful and had huge eyes.

~I then went to Hamner Springs and took a walk up to the top of town. I met some guys from Saudi Arabia that made dinner for me and this Dutch guy, something pronounced "Capsa" which is essentially meat and tomato stew over rice, YUM. The next morning I sat in their hot springs, which I had to pay for, and honestly wasn't that impressed. I will say though, that being in the 43 degree sulphur pool was uncomfortably warm, but did feel relaxed afterward. But overall I could have done without the trek to Hamner.

~I caught a ride to Christchurch with a German girl from the Hamner hostel and participated in a celebration with the local Nichiren Buddhist community (May 3rd!). It was really nice to meet more members and there were great performances over the afternoon. I stayed with members for a few days and got sorted with warmer clothes for the impending winter.

~Mount Cook was next with some absolutely gorgeous sunny days and really impressive views of the mountains. Mt Cook is the tallest mountain in New Zealand and it's a big feat to climb it. There was a nice vibe to the very small village, which was established basically as a base camp for mountaineers. The snow capped mountains were visible from my dorm window, which literally made me gasp in the morning. I four walks over 2 days, one of them called the Hooker Valley walk, which winded through the valley, over 2 swingbridges, and ended at Hooker lake, which had icebergs floating in it! They were fairly small, and kind of dirty, but it was still something I'd never seen before. They were also melting fairly rapidly...

~I then stayed 3 nights in Lake Wanaka. I went here basically to do a skydive, something that I've been wanting to do after seeing Freddy's video from ages ago. Unlike the bungy jump I don't actually have to do anything, the person strapped to you is the one that does all the work, which seems like a nice, tame extreme sport :) I met up with a friend from the kiwi orchard, Davide, a really sweet Italian guy. Then our other Italian friend from the orchard, Silvio, met up with us the next day. It rained all morning so I figured I wouldn't be able to sky dive, and the forecast for the next day was rain as well, so I was bummed. The rain let up in the afternoon, so the Italians and I took a walk around the lake. I have been really impressed with the colors of the trees in the south island, so many vibrant yellows and orange and even some reds here and there, matched with the ever-present greens and now snowy distant mountains has been so picturesque. When we get back to the hostel and walk into the kitchen I see two more friends from the vineyards have checked in! My lovely friends Sabrina and Carlolin from Germany! Sabrina also worked on the kiwi orchard, so it's like I've seen her almost every step of the way since January. She says to me "Caitlin! I've booked my skydive for tomorrow morning!" Aaaaah, what!? I call the company and ask to be put down as well, and I'm just reeling, am I actually going to do this???

The next morning is looking incredibly clear, so the skydive is ON. We get into these oversuits that look like something out of the circus with bright primary colors, and actually have to wait for over an hour while a layer of fog lifts from the airport. We also watch I think 3 groups go ahead of us, and Sabrina is getting really nervous, while I'm just getting more excited. My tandem diver, Alex, from Brazil, is awesome and cracking jokes and clearly loves what he does. We get into the plane, me first, because I'll be the last to jump, since everyone else is going at 12,000 ft and I'm jumping at 15,000 ft. The ride up is spectacular, just the most gorgeous day, and I'm able to see everything down below- Lake Wanaka, the Clutha River snaking lazily through farmland, and Mount Cook! Suddenly the door is opened and people start disappearing out of the plane. It hits me, that once Sabrina is out the door, oh Jesus, I'm about to jump out of a plane! this is when I start getting nervous, but there is no turning back. You can see my face on my video as I slide to the front of the plane and dangle my legs out the door, I'm thinking "fuck fuck fuck fuck" but before I know it I'm not sitting in the plane anymore and free falling over New Zealand. My instinct was to close my eyes but I forced them open, trying to take everything in, and mostly there was just so much color beneath me that I couldn't really distinguish anything below during the fall. I remember it being very windy, and I tried my hardest to smile for the camera but my mouth was just gaping open, halfway between screaming with joy and being speechless. I don't think I screamed out loud... I was such a rush, and I can't tell if that full minute of free fall was short or long, but it was definitely fantastic. Alex opens the parachute and we glided for several minutes, which is how I imagine what flying must feel like. Alex says "You can really say I have an office with a view!" and MAN am I jealous! I was just smiling like a fool, feeling like one of the luckiest people to be seeing the land from above in such a cool way. I'm so happy I did it.

Davide, Silvio, Carolin, Sabrina and I hike later that day above Diamond lake, with a 270 degree view of Lake Wanaka (wow!) then later make a huge dinner together. We decide to meet up in Queenstown over the next few days. Carolin and Sabrina head down early the next morning while Davide and Silvio and I go on a hike in Mt Aspiring national park, on I believe the Rob Roy track, ending looking up at a glacier on the side of one of the peaks, which I thought was actually much nicer than in Mt Cook.

~Queenstown is known for being insanely expensive and not too exciting, but we went during the 'off season'- not summer and not winter!- so there weren't too many people there, which made it a very pleasant visit. Again, gorgeous colors of autumn. Twas a little chilly but not unbearable in a town gearing up for ski season, again was a nice vibe. The five of us played frisbee golf in the park, which has a permanent course set up with chain baskets for goals. I really liked some of the holes, one where you had to stand on a rock to tee off, another your frisbee had to pass through two of four trees before going towards the basket, and one whose 'goal' was this tiny triangle between a tree and a boulder. The park was very pretty and the game was really fun, though we were borrowing seriously crappy frisbees from the hostel and we were all pretty atrocious, letting lots of people pass us with their fancy small frisbees designed for distance.. We celebrated with lunch at FergBurger, the place where everyone says you have to go while in Qtown, and the meals were HUGE and of course very tasty.

~ I then head back to Chch with Sabrina and Caro because we want to see Akaroa together. We stop overnight in Lake Tekapo, which is renowned for being extraordinarily blue from glacial rock powder suspended in it. Here I also decide to book a flight to Auckland for my last week, which I think will be more exciting than staying on the south island.

~ Akaroa is the culturally French town in NZ, though I don't really see it other than the street names, but think the town is very quaint. Some of the houses are very cute but didn't scream 'french'. We ended up meeting other friends, and Sabrina/Caro drove back, while I stayed behind with the others, sitting in the sun as it slowly went down behind the hills. It was very warm all day (why did I get warm clothes again?? I haven't needed to use them!) and just sitting on the side of the road by the water on this patch of grass was so lovely.

~Jump from staying with my friend Hannah in Christchurch to a weekend with Helen in Auckland, and on to Pahia in the Bay of Islands. This is in the northern penninsula of NZ on the north island, and was one of the few places I hadn't yet visited, and figured it would be a great way to end my journey. The first day we got a cruise of the islands, going to the famous "hole in the rock", which is literally a big hole in a rock out at sea, very strange weathering... And then we found a pod of bottlenosed dolphins having, get this, an orgy. Cheeky. These dolphins were a lot bigger than the Dusky ones I saw in Kaikoura, and at first I thought, "I don't really need to see dolphins again, I swam with them!" But then even seeing them breathing was really amazing. I think they're just incredible creatures, I was transfixed by them.

The following day I took a bus tour to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of New Zealand, where the waters of the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean literally come together. In Maori culture this is where souls depart to the next world. Watching the waves crash was beautiful, spiritual and incredibly unique. I could have sat there watching for a long time. I really enjoyed our lunch stop on the beach, again just a beautiful day and the water was so inviting that I just took my shoes off, rolled up my pants and stuck my feet into the clear waters, letting any anxieties of leaving wash away. It had rained earlier in the day, which was perfect for SANDBOARDING, where we drove to this massive sand dune and got boogie boards to slide down it on our stomachs. It was great fun, because the slightly wet sand makes you go really fast, which was also a bit terrifying as you're looking down the slope head first, but I enjoyed it so much that I tackled the uphill sandy struggle three times for that downhill rush. We also got to see wild horses on the Ninety Mile Beach! I didn't think there were very many left, but we saw about seven of them, beautiful chestnut brown and white.

The next morning it was so perfect out, so I went out kayaking on the water with a girl I met on the bus. The water was so glassy that it was really easy to kayak (unlike in Abel Tasman) and all I wanted to do was spend the day out on the water. As we're bringing in our kayaks the guy at the store asks if we want to go sailing with him, so I say why not?? I spend the afternoon helping jib the main sheet on a 123 year old boat, getting to see the islands some more and shooting the breeze with some locals! Oh, and we saw a small penguin in the water :)

The following day it rained. All day. Yuck. But then the day after, on the bus ride back to Auckland, we stopped at a native bird conservatory and hospital, where I saw a talking Tui bird named Woof Woof. He sounded a little like a robot, and I could understand him talking about Christmas.. or maybe it was 'kiss kiss'. That was bizarre. But what was REALLY amazing was when the keeper comes out with a real kiwi bird! I couldn't believe it, I didn't think I was really going to see one before leaving, and he even let us pet it! It wasn't that soft, actually its feathers felt kind of lumpy, but never mind, I PET A KIWI BIRD! And then he let it run back in its cage and it was really fast- no wonder no one ever sees them, they like to hide. And it just looks like it should topple over because their beaks are so long and have just the most bizarre body shape... But what another great highlight in my week filled with nature!

~I've gotten this last weekend with my friends Helen and Amy at Helen's house in a suburb of Auckland called Ponsonby, and we've had a lovely time together. Amy left for Australia this morning, so it was really wonderful to see her again before we're both out of the country. The other night we got all dressed up and went out, and we pretty much owned the bar because we looked so fabulous. Yesterday we were all tired and hungover, so we ordered pizza and almost set the kitchen on fire trying to keep the pizza warm, that was exciting. Basically I didn't know how to work the oven and it was set on 'grill mode' and a high temperature, and Helen put the BOXES into the oven... luckily Helen smelled something burning and we pulled out the boxes, which caught flame as soon as they were taken out... geez, it was a little scary. But we put out the fire and cleaned everything up (and ruined one of the pizzas, cry..) and felt really stupid. An exciting end to the weekend.

I think these will be the last memories of New Zealand, really. These next few days I'll be down in Christchurch waiting for my flight out on Friday morning! It's my birthday on Thursday, but I'm not willing to party and then immediately embark on my 24hr journey home, so either I will celebrate the day before or just be really really lame and not do anything. But either way I've had many other celebrations of being overseas. Though it's sad that it's coming to an end, I am so happy for everything I've done and seen and the people that I've met. It's been a wild ride. I hope I will get to do at least one more reflective post, most likely at Sydney Airport, to really tie up the last of my New Zealand experience!

In the words of my mother's email this morning, "Caitlin's coming home! Caitlin's coming home! Caitlin's coming home!"