Birthday!!!

Happy happy birthday to Caaaaaaaaaaaitliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin.
23 years old. Wow. WOW. And I'll be home in, like, less than 20 hours. Woooow.

I spent my last days in Christchurch living at my friend Hannah's house. All week it was POURING rain. It really felt like winter too, it got so cold! Wore my gloves and hat and anything warm I could get my hands on. When I could feel my hands. I spent my mornings in the central library reading and just avoiding going outside. The Avon River was basically flooded. I hated staying inside so long, so eventually I would venture out into the wet and gloom trying to find things to do.

My friend Joana was staying in Chch too, and we decided to see the movie Boy, by the same guy that did Eagle Vs. Shark, and I really enjoyed it. It's a coming of age tale about a Maori family living on the East Coast in the '80s, just after Michael Jackson's Thriller came out. If the movie goes to America (or maybe it came and went?) I reccommend seeing it, it's a really great look into the Maori small-town lifestyle and mentality. And you get to hear the accent, which I'm sure I will miss coming home...

On Wednesday I wanted to celebrate my birthday, effectively a day early, so that I wouldn't have to worry about going to the airport straight from a celebration. Basically everything fell through because when Hannah and I got back to hers and finished eating dinner (we made fajitas! sooooo good! I'm so looking forward to having burritos again!!!) it was just too cold and wet outside, and Hannah had work the next day, and it's a 30min walk into town. We all just didn't feel like braving the night. I felt really lame, but didn't think it was the end of the world because I could just celebrate my birthday on the actual day.

So Thursday I turned 23 (woo!) and met Joana and her boyfriend Simon for lunch, and we took our time because, surprise, it was raining, and it was warm in the restaraunt. Joana gave me a really awesome canvas bag with kiwis on it - which is really cool since we worked on the kiwi orchard together - and wrote a really lovely note on a picture of the beach near Opotiki where we had spent one afternoon. She also bought me a cookie from one of her favorite shops, which definitely made my heart start pumping with the insane sugar rush. It was really hard to say goodbye because Jo and I really connected and we've run into each other so many times in the last few months that it's just hard to believe we won't see each other anymore. It's probably why I didn't cry- it's just too hard to believe.

The only reason I broke away was that my friend Pina, from the vineyards, was also in town and had been texting me to come to her hostel because she made me a cake. It was 4pm by this point, and I was going to meet Hannah for a drink after she finished work at 5, so I was a little hesitant to see Pina because I was worried about the time. I had asked if she wanted to join me and Hannah in town, but she said it would be better for me to come to the hostel because of the cake. She also said that there was another surprise for me, and I figured she must have gotten me a present. It was really sweet, especially because we weren't best of friends at Copper Beech (vineyard hostel). It sounded like she just put some effort into my birthday (and had remembered it when I was in Chch before, at the rugby game, like she had put it into her planner and was all excited for it) so I thought it would be good to drop it. Plus, she was always baking in Copper Beech, and it was really sweet that she made me a cake, so I texted back that I would drop by but only for a little while in order to meet Hannah on time. When I finally got to the hostel (and it was FREEZING outside, was very glad to be in the warm) it was closer to 4:30 and I thought I would only be able to stay for 15 minutes before having to walk to meet Hannah, and it made me sad, because it would be too short, but I figured a small visit was better than none at all.

I asked the desk manager where I could find Pina, and he went to get her for me. I love this girl, she comes bounding out all smiling and gives me a big hug. I was flooded with affection for her, and immediately glad I came over. Pina is overly excited, beckoning me through the kitchen and into the dining room, I'm guessing just because she wants to dig into the cake. I open the door and suddenly

HAPPY BIRTHDAY CAITLIN!!!!!!!!!!!

It's a huge crew of Germans from Copper Beech throwing me a surprise party!!! I had NO idea, they completely surprised me, and I felt so loved. I didn't think that I would get to see these lovely people again, and it was just the best present I could have asked for. I mean, they were planning this party for over a month, I think since I left Blenheim, and these guys drove and hitch hiked from all over New Zealand just to be with me! How sweet is that??? I really meant it when I said Copper Beech was like a family, and it definitely felt like a reunion seeing all of them there in pink princess birthday hats and blowing party horns. I almost started crying, I was so touched.

We catch up over Pina's brownie cake, and I couldn't have been happier celebrating with all of these familiar faces. It's so crazy because I've literally said goodbye to some of the girls 5 times since working with them in Opotiki, then departing in Gisbourne after seeing the East Cape together, then meeting/departing in Wellington, working together on the vineyards in Blenheim, then running into each other in Wanaka then departing in Christchurch... and then again in Christchurch!! I'm certain that we will stay in touch forever, because so much of my time here has been spent with these girls. So, I guess while I didn't get to see every single part of New Zealand, or go on all the walks, or feel a little regret for not travelling to another part of the world before coming home, I've truly had a wonderful time because I've made really good friends. That, and if I ever want to go to Germany, I'll be set, because it seems I've befriended the entire country...

Hannah treats me to dinner (and the Germans require that I wear my pink party hat out, and some guy on the street commented "That'll keep off the rain!") and I realize that she's one of the first people I met in New Zealand, all the way back in Auckland at BASE. And we basically saw each other once a month for at least a day since February. Essentially Hannah has been at every step in my New Zealand travels, which was so cool that we could say we tracked each others' progress over the months. It was even harder to say goodbye to Hannah because she's the person I've known the longest and it really feels like I'll just meet up with her again next month. I just had to tear myself away and try not to think about how sad it really is that I won't see so many of these wonderful people again... That's what I'll miss more than anything about NZ.

After returning to the hostel for drinks and general merriment, I get to the airport at 5 am (and didn't sleep, which I was hoping I would, but oh well). I made my flight and slept in chunks. I didn't expect to get our own tvs because it's such a short flight, but it IS international and they even fed us, fancy! I wasn't really expecting United Airlines to be so nice. I'm on them again for my main flight back to SFO, so while it's not Qantas it's a pretty decent substitute. But now I've got 3 hours before my plane even boards. Luckily there's free internet at the Sydney Airport...

My Last Month

So much has happened since my last post, let's give a quick overview, shall we? Wish I could give even more detail, do it all more justice...

~ Swimming with Dusky dolphins in Kaikoura on the east coast was absolutely incredible! We had a very clear morning with calm seas and the dolphins were very close by, only a 20 minute boat ride with minimal rocking. Our group was really big, about 20 swimmers plus people just doing the watching, so we had to split into two groups for the swimming. I don't know how long I actually spent in the water, but with the wet suit on I was surprised that I didn't feel cold at all and wanted a lot longer with the dolphins. I mean, I get into the water and all of a sudden there are TONS underneath me. I love their dark markings, they swirl and remind me of the waves of the ocean. We're encouraged to sing to the dolphins, but mostly all I can do is make odd noises with the snorkel in my mouth. It seems to work initially to entice the dolphins closer (they're completely wild, and so our guides tell us that it's our job to entertain THEM!) I circled with a few of them, looking into their eyes and feeling very connected with nature. There were also two seals in the water, and they were super graceful and beautiful and had huge eyes.

~I then went to Hamner Springs and took a walk up to the top of town. I met some guys from Saudi Arabia that made dinner for me and this Dutch guy, something pronounced "Capsa" which is essentially meat and tomato stew over rice, YUM. The next morning I sat in their hot springs, which I had to pay for, and honestly wasn't that impressed. I will say though, that being in the 43 degree sulphur pool was uncomfortably warm, but did feel relaxed afterward. But overall I could have done without the trek to Hamner.

~I caught a ride to Christchurch with a German girl from the Hamner hostel and participated in a celebration with the local Nichiren Buddhist community (May 3rd!). It was really nice to meet more members and there were great performances over the afternoon. I stayed with members for a few days and got sorted with warmer clothes for the impending winter.

~Mount Cook was next with some absolutely gorgeous sunny days and really impressive views of the mountains. Mt Cook is the tallest mountain in New Zealand and it's a big feat to climb it. There was a nice vibe to the very small village, which was established basically as a base camp for mountaineers. The snow capped mountains were visible from my dorm window, which literally made me gasp in the morning. I four walks over 2 days, one of them called the Hooker Valley walk, which winded through the valley, over 2 swingbridges, and ended at Hooker lake, which had icebergs floating in it! They were fairly small, and kind of dirty, but it was still something I'd never seen before. They were also melting fairly rapidly...

~I then stayed 3 nights in Lake Wanaka. I went here basically to do a skydive, something that I've been wanting to do after seeing Freddy's video from ages ago. Unlike the bungy jump I don't actually have to do anything, the person strapped to you is the one that does all the work, which seems like a nice, tame extreme sport :) I met up with a friend from the kiwi orchard, Davide, a really sweet Italian guy. Then our other Italian friend from the orchard, Silvio, met up with us the next day. It rained all morning so I figured I wouldn't be able to sky dive, and the forecast for the next day was rain as well, so I was bummed. The rain let up in the afternoon, so the Italians and I took a walk around the lake. I have been really impressed with the colors of the trees in the south island, so many vibrant yellows and orange and even some reds here and there, matched with the ever-present greens and now snowy distant mountains has been so picturesque. When we get back to the hostel and walk into the kitchen I see two more friends from the vineyards have checked in! My lovely friends Sabrina and Carlolin from Germany! Sabrina also worked on the kiwi orchard, so it's like I've seen her almost every step of the way since January. She says to me "Caitlin! I've booked my skydive for tomorrow morning!" Aaaaah, what!? I call the company and ask to be put down as well, and I'm just reeling, am I actually going to do this???

The next morning is looking incredibly clear, so the skydive is ON. We get into these oversuits that look like something out of the circus with bright primary colors, and actually have to wait for over an hour while a layer of fog lifts from the airport. We also watch I think 3 groups go ahead of us, and Sabrina is getting really nervous, while I'm just getting more excited. My tandem diver, Alex, from Brazil, is awesome and cracking jokes and clearly loves what he does. We get into the plane, me first, because I'll be the last to jump, since everyone else is going at 12,000 ft and I'm jumping at 15,000 ft. The ride up is spectacular, just the most gorgeous day, and I'm able to see everything down below- Lake Wanaka, the Clutha River snaking lazily through farmland, and Mount Cook! Suddenly the door is opened and people start disappearing out of the plane. It hits me, that once Sabrina is out the door, oh Jesus, I'm about to jump out of a plane! this is when I start getting nervous, but there is no turning back. You can see my face on my video as I slide to the front of the plane and dangle my legs out the door, I'm thinking "fuck fuck fuck fuck" but before I know it I'm not sitting in the plane anymore and free falling over New Zealand. My instinct was to close my eyes but I forced them open, trying to take everything in, and mostly there was just so much color beneath me that I couldn't really distinguish anything below during the fall. I remember it being very windy, and I tried my hardest to smile for the camera but my mouth was just gaping open, halfway between screaming with joy and being speechless. I don't think I screamed out loud... I was such a rush, and I can't tell if that full minute of free fall was short or long, but it was definitely fantastic. Alex opens the parachute and we glided for several minutes, which is how I imagine what flying must feel like. Alex says "You can really say I have an office with a view!" and MAN am I jealous! I was just smiling like a fool, feeling like one of the luckiest people to be seeing the land from above in such a cool way. I'm so happy I did it.

Davide, Silvio, Carolin, Sabrina and I hike later that day above Diamond lake, with a 270 degree view of Lake Wanaka (wow!) then later make a huge dinner together. We decide to meet up in Queenstown over the next few days. Carolin and Sabrina head down early the next morning while Davide and Silvio and I go on a hike in Mt Aspiring national park, on I believe the Rob Roy track, ending looking up at a glacier on the side of one of the peaks, which I thought was actually much nicer than in Mt Cook.

~Queenstown is known for being insanely expensive and not too exciting, but we went during the 'off season'- not summer and not winter!- so there weren't too many people there, which made it a very pleasant visit. Again, gorgeous colors of autumn. Twas a little chilly but not unbearable in a town gearing up for ski season, again was a nice vibe. The five of us played frisbee golf in the park, which has a permanent course set up with chain baskets for goals. I really liked some of the holes, one where you had to stand on a rock to tee off, another your frisbee had to pass through two of four trees before going towards the basket, and one whose 'goal' was this tiny triangle between a tree and a boulder. The park was very pretty and the game was really fun, though we were borrowing seriously crappy frisbees from the hostel and we were all pretty atrocious, letting lots of people pass us with their fancy small frisbees designed for distance.. We celebrated with lunch at FergBurger, the place where everyone says you have to go while in Qtown, and the meals were HUGE and of course very tasty.

~ I then head back to Chch with Sabrina and Caro because we want to see Akaroa together. We stop overnight in Lake Tekapo, which is renowned for being extraordinarily blue from glacial rock powder suspended in it. Here I also decide to book a flight to Auckland for my last week, which I think will be more exciting than staying on the south island.

~ Akaroa is the culturally French town in NZ, though I don't really see it other than the street names, but think the town is very quaint. Some of the houses are very cute but didn't scream 'french'. We ended up meeting other friends, and Sabrina/Caro drove back, while I stayed behind with the others, sitting in the sun as it slowly went down behind the hills. It was very warm all day (why did I get warm clothes again?? I haven't needed to use them!) and just sitting on the side of the road by the water on this patch of grass was so lovely.

~Jump from staying with my friend Hannah in Christchurch to a weekend with Helen in Auckland, and on to Pahia in the Bay of Islands. This is in the northern penninsula of NZ on the north island, and was one of the few places I hadn't yet visited, and figured it would be a great way to end my journey. The first day we got a cruise of the islands, going to the famous "hole in the rock", which is literally a big hole in a rock out at sea, very strange weathering... And then we found a pod of bottlenosed dolphins having, get this, an orgy. Cheeky. These dolphins were a lot bigger than the Dusky ones I saw in Kaikoura, and at first I thought, "I don't really need to see dolphins again, I swam with them!" But then even seeing them breathing was really amazing. I think they're just incredible creatures, I was transfixed by them.

The following day I took a bus tour to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of New Zealand, where the waters of the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean literally come together. In Maori culture this is where souls depart to the next world. Watching the waves crash was beautiful, spiritual and incredibly unique. I could have sat there watching for a long time. I really enjoyed our lunch stop on the beach, again just a beautiful day and the water was so inviting that I just took my shoes off, rolled up my pants and stuck my feet into the clear waters, letting any anxieties of leaving wash away. It had rained earlier in the day, which was perfect for SANDBOARDING, where we drove to this massive sand dune and got boogie boards to slide down it on our stomachs. It was great fun, because the slightly wet sand makes you go really fast, which was also a bit terrifying as you're looking down the slope head first, but I enjoyed it so much that I tackled the uphill sandy struggle three times for that downhill rush. We also got to see wild horses on the Ninety Mile Beach! I didn't think there were very many left, but we saw about seven of them, beautiful chestnut brown and white.

The next morning it was so perfect out, so I went out kayaking on the water with a girl I met on the bus. The water was so glassy that it was really easy to kayak (unlike in Abel Tasman) and all I wanted to do was spend the day out on the water. As we're bringing in our kayaks the guy at the store asks if we want to go sailing with him, so I say why not?? I spend the afternoon helping jib the main sheet on a 123 year old boat, getting to see the islands some more and shooting the breeze with some locals! Oh, and we saw a small penguin in the water :)

The following day it rained. All day. Yuck. But then the day after, on the bus ride back to Auckland, we stopped at a native bird conservatory and hospital, where I saw a talking Tui bird named Woof Woof. He sounded a little like a robot, and I could understand him talking about Christmas.. or maybe it was 'kiss kiss'. That was bizarre. But what was REALLY amazing was when the keeper comes out with a real kiwi bird! I couldn't believe it, I didn't think I was really going to see one before leaving, and he even let us pet it! It wasn't that soft, actually its feathers felt kind of lumpy, but never mind, I PET A KIWI BIRD! And then he let it run back in its cage and it was really fast- no wonder no one ever sees them, they like to hide. And it just looks like it should topple over because their beaks are so long and have just the most bizarre body shape... But what another great highlight in my week filled with nature!

~I've gotten this last weekend with my friends Helen and Amy at Helen's house in a suburb of Auckland called Ponsonby, and we've had a lovely time together. Amy left for Australia this morning, so it was really wonderful to see her again before we're both out of the country. The other night we got all dressed up and went out, and we pretty much owned the bar because we looked so fabulous. Yesterday we were all tired and hungover, so we ordered pizza and almost set the kitchen on fire trying to keep the pizza warm, that was exciting. Basically I didn't know how to work the oven and it was set on 'grill mode' and a high temperature, and Helen put the BOXES into the oven... luckily Helen smelled something burning and we pulled out the boxes, which caught flame as soon as they were taken out... geez, it was a little scary. But we put out the fire and cleaned everything up (and ruined one of the pizzas, cry..) and felt really stupid. An exciting end to the weekend.

I think these will be the last memories of New Zealand, really. These next few days I'll be down in Christchurch waiting for my flight out on Friday morning! It's my birthday on Thursday, but I'm not willing to party and then immediately embark on my 24hr journey home, so either I will celebrate the day before or just be really really lame and not do anything. But either way I've had many other celebrations of being overseas. Though it's sad that it's coming to an end, I am so happy for everything I've done and seen and the people that I've met. It's been a wild ride. I hope I will get to do at least one more reflective post, most likely at Sydney Airport, to really tie up the last of my New Zealand experience!

In the words of my mother's email this morning, "Caitlin's coming home! Caitlin's coming home! Caitlin's coming home!"

From my adventures with Virginia

"Guten Tag everyone!

I write this on my German friend’s little computer, where the z and y keys are switched, so I have to think really hard when I’m typing! Apologies if some words look funny…

I finally wanted to fill you in on some of the really fantastic things I did with Virginia, because it was SO MUCH FUN. After the fantasticness of Abel Tasman we headed out toward the glaciers, and had wanted to go on the coastal highway to stop at the Punakaki Rocks, but somehow took a wrong turn (all thanks to V’s GPS, whose name is Ken. Ken was very helpful sometimes, and we were super grateful for him, but it was funny when he would say things like “in six hundred yards, go left” when there was clearly no turn, and just a bend in the road. Thanks Ken.) When we got to Greymouth we made the executive decision to go up the coast anyway, about an hour and a half detour round trip, so we could see the rocks. The weather was kind of grey but once we got views of the coast it actually made it more spectacular seeing huge rocks coming out of the water and mist coming in from the sea. The Punakaki rocks are this odd sedimentary formation that’s all in these flat layers, nicknamed “pancake rocks”, and they’re all in these weird eaten-away towers along the coast. Some have cool caverns and you’re looking down into them as the water swirls in, and when the sea is rough enough sometimes you get geyser-like effects of spray. It wasn’t so rough, but we saw little sprays. And we found a lamb rock. It looked like a lamb. Sort of. And there was a tour bus of older women that offered to take our picture a few times, and they asked where we were from- “California girls!? We have one lady from Santa Barbara, don’t we?” Then back in Greymouth we picked up some groceries and the same tour bus was there “Oh! California girls! We have someone from California with us too…” Cute.

We got in late to Franz Joseph, just barely making check-in before 9pm (this was quite the pattern with us) and the guy at the desk was surprised by our peppiness- “Wow. What are you girls so happy about?” “We’re hiking on a GLACIER tomorrow!” We couldn’t help it, even the long hours in the car couldn’t hold us back. The hostel was one of the nicer ones I’ve stayed in- very warm and a really good kitchen, though it wasn’t a BBH, which is just the hostel membership I have so I can get discounts on sleeping, but it was worth it for the coziness- and it had these amazing pictures of ice caves and of Milford Sound in the halls, so V and I were freaking out every time we headed around the halls. In the morning we got suited up at the Franz Joseph Guides company (the same one I applied to, but haven’t heard anzthing from them and it’s been like two months now, so I can safely say theyre not interested. Oh well, their loss); they give you jackets and socks and boots and pants and crazy ‘cramp ons’ for your boots which look like bear traps, and are put on the bottom of your boot so you can walk in the ice (spikes go into the ICE, not the BOOT; our guides said it was amazing how many people had put them on the wrong way). We took a bus to the beginning of the park, and had to walk pretty far to get to the foot of the glacier, but it didn’t look that far away. There was an optical illusion with the valley, so it looked like it wasn’t more than twenty minutes away when it was actually a 1.5 km distance, something about the valley walls narrowing at the glacier but widening out where we were… crazy go nuts. The walk to the glacier was flat at least, then we put on our cramp ons at the bottom, but had to walk on rock before getting to the ice, which sounded AWFUL with the metal on rock, and was super awkward to walk on anyway. Once we got on the ice, though, it was very, very cool. But actually not cold, it’s a temperate glacier (rare! There’s also one in central America, says our guide), so it was pretty pleasant actually! The guides all walked in shorts, I kid you not. Plus we were bundled up in our fleeces and borrowed gear, and once we started walking around I got pretty warm, so could have easilz done without the extras, but then if the wind blew a little I was glad again for the layers. You could see these ice cliffs ahead of us, which again didn’t look that far away, but it was another optical illusion against the white of the rest of the ice and it would take all day to walk up that far. The guide carried around a pick axe, and would carve out steps for us to walk on. Which I suppose isn’t natural, but it was kind of cool, and made the place feel like an ice castle. We got to shimmy through a narrow ice hallway, sliding through these smooth walls sideways, and it felt like we were ice explorers! We loved looking at all the cool formations of ice, clicking away our cameras and going I cant believe this! We were sad when we got to the ‘top’, which ended up being much closer than we expected, and then ate a snack and headed down again, amounting to only forty minutes or so on the ice itself.

We felt like it wasn’t enough time, so when we got back to the office we booked another walk for the next day… taking a helicopter ride to the top of the glacier! Long story short we had to wait two days before getting onto the helicopter because of bad weather, which kind of sucked because there’s not much in Franz Joseph other than hiking the glacier. We did fill our time by taking some walks to see glow worms, and one was at night in the forest! It was super dark but that made seeing the worms a little easier. They were etherial in a way, you spotted them better if you didnt look directly at them . Sometimes we had to crouch down and look under logs. We spent a long time looking at the green glow under a fallen tree, just staring and feeling at peace. On another hike we went up to these caves where we had to walk barefoot in the water (FREEZING! I thought my toes were going to fall off) and turn off our headlamps every few feet to check out the glow above us. Pretty cool.

Even cooler? Getting a HELICOPTER RIDE TO A GLACIER! That ride in was one of the coolest things I’ve ever done. This massive ice monster passing under us, wow. And we got to see those ice cliffs in the air, which was just so surreal. My jaw was in an open smile the whole time. We got so much time walking around, Virginia and I took so many pictures of cool ice formations and pools of water. We even got to go into an ice cave! Some of the ice was this amazing blue color, which comes from lack of air and increased pressure on the ice, so all throughout our walkways were these amazing blue streaks. I cant wait to see the pictures on a bigger screen, I may not be able to believe them. We also got to see some mini ice avalanches off in the distance, a cracking of sound throughout the valley and then aaaaah falling ice! It was a bit far away for us to be worried about it. We were on solid ground (well, ice), about 80 m thick, wow. And the guide said they get about 8 METERS of precipitation every year, so I felt really lucky that we were there on pretty clear days. In fact our helicopter was the last one of the day because the weather got too cloudy again, so we reaallly lucked out. We were so happy we stuck it out to get another few hours hiking around.

This was on Wednesday, St. Patrick's Day, and we wanted to be in Queenstown for the festivities, because it’s one of the big party towns. It’s quite a drive from Franz Joseph, about 5 hours, and we didnt really leave after the hike until around 4pm. We also made a stop at Lake Matheson, which we saw in pictures as having just stunning views of the glacial valley with Mt Cook in the distance, and on a clear day the water is still and it looks like a mirror of the landscape. It’s a long walk around the lake so we opted for just a 15 minute jaunt to a lookout, and the wind was blowing enough to make the water choppy, so we didnt replicate any postcards, but it was very pretty. And the walk was very pleasant too- V got to walk over her very first swingbridge in NZ, which are fairly common on walks here (I went over several on my Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk with Freddy) but since it was her first one she got all excited, and we enjoyed jumping on it and making it actually swing alittle while no one was on the bridge with us. Back on the road it got very dark and the road got all windy (and I think we may have hit a possum at one point? But they’re pests here so dont get all angry with us, we tried to swerve out of the way!) so we didnt make it into Qtown until very late, sometime after 11pm I think. Schade (German for sad). We did see that people were out but we were too tired from driving and just wanted to go to sleep, because the next day we had another 5+ hour drive.

Our next destination was Milford Sound, where the famous Milford Track is, arguably one of the most picturesque places in the world. The Milford Track is very difficult to book especially in the summer- you have to do it months in advance. Even in fall and winter it can be difficult, and V tried, but the first available day was just after she was leaving. Plus you have to stay in huts and it runs into money. We opted to take a late afternoon cruise of the sounds, which would get us time to get there from Qtown. The weather was grey in town, but as we drove out of the city it cleared up so we thought it would be a great day for the cruise. We stopped in Te Anau, about 2 hrs outside of the Sounds, to rent some camping gear, and also stopped several times to do short walks (Mirror Lakes was right by the side of the road and had some really nice views and ducks playing, plus an upside down sign that reflected correctly in the water) and take pictures of the scenery, more towering mountains in the valley. Once we got to the sign saying ‘Welcome to Milford Sound‘ we got nervous because the clouds were coming in. We had to wait at the tunnel entrance, which was a one-lane road cutting down through the mountain blockade, so only cars can only go in one direction at a time. While we waited for our turn we did another short walk by the side of the road, walking around boulders that had come off of the mountains. There were also TALL waterfalls coming down the slopes, some of the longest Ive ever seen! Your neck almost hurt looking up, then the fog kept getting thicker so we didnt really know how tall these cliffs were. When we drove down through the tunnel we thought, aw, we’ll drive under the fog and it will be fine. And then we got out to the other side and it was WORSE. Crap! We were also running late (as usual) and had to park the car and run to the cruise line. Virginia was quite sour leading up to the cruise because the weather was so bad, but I just tried to assure her that it was going to be fine. She asked the woman at the desk, since it was so foggy, if we werent satisfied with the cruise if we could try going on it again in the morning, and she told us that it was a definite possibility. Sure enough, we get on the boat and it’s raining and windy and foggy, and we really couldnt see much. The plus side of it raining was that there were tons of waterfalls all throughout the Sounds, but they were coming out of a blanket of mist, we couldnt even see where they began. We wanted to be happy that we were there, but it was truly disappointing that it was dark and grey and cold. We resolved to come back in the morning.

We stayed overnight at the Milford Lodge, the only accommodation in the Sounds, which wasnt that cosy like we thought a lodge should be. Their kitchen was subpar with not enough burners for the large number of people trzing to cook. But we tried to stay inside for as long as possible, because we were camping, and didnt really want to be outside longer than we had to. Anyway when we woke up it was still grey and at first we go aw crap not again! But then we thought, no, it might burn off. We go to the cruise line as soon as it opens to see if we can get on a morning cruise for free, and we can! We had an hour to kill, which was good for giving the weather time to wise up, and gave us a chance to do one of the walks around the area. We went to this place called The Chasm, a 30 minute loop in mossy green trees heading to a waterfall beneath a bridge that pooled into a crystal clear lagoon that reminded me of something out of Peter Pan. We were the only ones there at 9am, it was so gorgeous and quiet (except for the rushing water) and we were pretty happy.
Then we got even more excited when we came out of the trees and could see BLUE SKIES! We head back to the pier and get on the boat and it's just the clearest day, so the postcards of Milford Sound come to life before our eyes! Giant glaciated mountains towering out of the water, that's what I came to see! There was quite a bit of wind so it was actually fairly choppy on the water, I had trouble standing up as we cruised along. So the water wasn't calm enough to take the pictures of a perfect reflection, but that's okay. Sometimes they say you can see dolphins, but we didn't see any. We did see some seals on the rocks though! The cruise takes you out of the sounds and does a short loop out on the ocean, then takes you back in. Wow. So glad we stuck it out. We were on air with happiness, because if you aren't going to walk the milford track, at the very least you have to see them. YAY.

We did another walk around Lake Gunn through red beech trees -which were not red, but actually covered in moss, which was really cool and like another enchanted sort of forest. We found shapes in the moss, and sat on mossy thrones, and climbed on mossy trees hoping they would be Ents and carry us around. Some trees had these huge boil things on their trunks that had some sort of significance but of course I can't remember... But it was another quiet walk where we really didn't see anyone, so it was a forest and lake to ourselves.

This must have been on Friday, because V had 2 days to get to her flight in Christchurch, so we drove drove drove to Dunedin (We saw the west AND east coasts in one day!), stopping at a statue of a GIANT trout or something in Gore with these scary teeth, and met up with Jackie and Lisa in the evening over free wine, catching up on the last few months. They seemed to be really happy working in their hostel, where they shared a cleaning position and worked part time. Jackie has booked her flight to Australia at the end of April and then heading home the third week of May while Lisa seems to be staying in Dunedin for a little while longer. It was great to see them. The next day, Saturday, we went to the Dunedin farmer's market with all kinds of fresh herbs and baked things for sale. There was a magic show for kids and this guy ate an entire balloon which was kind of gross. We shared lamb skewers, yuuuum, and tried some sort of odd honey, rosemary or something. Then we tried out all of these cool bikes, one with a HUGE front wheel, small ones where you pedal side by side, a tandem one but one of the seats was backwards... crazy silly and fun!

There was a lot of falling over, and I got a sweet bruise from one bike, which was shorter than knee-height, and much laughter from the ridiculousness of it.

We took a walk outside of Dunedin up to these lava tubes, nicknamed organ pipes, with a cool view overlooking the Otago Peninsula. We got into Christchurch later that night and ate Thai food and treated ourselves to hokey pokey ice cream, a New Zealand treat that Virginia just had to try before leaving. We tried to polish off a 2liter box because that was the cheapest option, but somehow couldnt bring ourselves to do so. We made ourselves even more sick by trying out this amazing dessert red wine I had bought in Napier months before, which was meant to be paired with dark chocolate. So, we had a lot of indulgences on our last night, which I believe was necessary.

The next morning we found a hostel for me to stay in and took the car back to the rental place. Virginia had been travelling without her drivers lisence since the first hour that we got together- we looked for it all over the car and we decided it must have gotten left in Picton when we were loading everything into the Bluebird. We thought it wouldnt hurt to ask if it had turned up, and the lady called up Picton and THEY FOUND IT. So we gave V’s address info, which saved her a whole lot of DMV headache with having to get a new one, and by now she should have her lisence back. We waited for her airport shuttle in complete disbelief and happiness, yet sad to be parting, yet so glad that we had the journey together!!!

DOLPHINS

I have just one minute to say that I swam with Dusky Dolphins and fur seals in Kaikoura yesterday, and it was absolutely AMAZING! Picking grapes for a month was DEFINITELY worth it :)

Holy moly, only 6 weeks to go...

I'm leaving Blenheim today, after working in the vineyards for a total of 5 weeks. You would think that I've saved up a lot, but I really haven't, since the harvest was so short and not many hours to work. But that's okay, it's just time to go. It's definitely hard though, because the backpackers where I've been living this whole time, Copper Beech, has been so great. There's a core group of 25 of us that's been working, so it's felt like a family. A lot of people are leaving today and tomorrow, so most of us are realizing the harvest is over... But none of us really want to go, because it's such a great atmosphere. The two managers, Bonno and Ruben from the Netherlands, have been so helpful with helping us find work and then they organize things to do as a hostel. We've been having classic movie nights twice a week (Shawshank Redemption last Thursday, then Disney movies on Sundays) and they organized paralympic games over Easter, we have the soccer games and we once went to a driving range (man did I suck! but it was strangely addictive..), the other night they rented "Singstar" and we were all doing this karaoke together and sounding so horrible but laughing through the whole thing (which, sometimes, gave us more points than if we were really trying to sing...) and last week we went to "Housie". No one knew what it was, so we were all excited, thinking it could be like dodgeball or something, so a bunch of us are walking to it speculating, ooh maybe it's paintball or a dance party! We show up and it's BINGO. Ha. And it was full of old Maori women that were super serious about it "You know we started at seven, right?" It's 7:04, really? You have to get a "full house" of all your numbers on the card covered (hence, 'housie') and we bought just one strip each, but they had like 5 cards at once they were working with, and the numbers were called out so fast on the computer (double seven, seventyseven;three five thirtyfive; on its own number four) And we weren't exactly sure how to play at first, so there were some women that I've worked with before that were mouthing to us "Get a line! Get all the numbers!" so people were nice once we got in and sat down. Then you get into it and you're hoping to win $40, or on the "super housie" you can win up to $500!! and then someone else gets it, and it's like the entire room has been holding their breath and they all exhale in disappointment when someone else wins. It was really silly, but it was still hilarious for a bunch of us to go try. I'm really going to miss it here. But again, it's time to move on.

I've been very connected with the Nichiren Buddhist community here, and they're holding a training course next weekend in the area that I really wanted to go to. So, I'm going to wwoof this week in the Marlbourough Sounds at a house where you can only get to it by boat (!), then be back for the weekend to attend the course. I'll be wwoofing with a friend that I met through the SGI, and she's hoping to buy a car so that after the course is over we can travel some of the south island together. I've seen many of the highlights from my time with Virginia, but there's still more to see. I haven't been down the East Coast really, just saw Christchurch, so I'm hoping that we can make some stops in Kaikoura (dolphins!) and Omaru and Timaru (penguins!), then maybe cut over toward Queenstown and Lake Wanaka (sky dive???). My flight leaves out of Christchurch eeeeeeeeeeearly on May 28th, so I'll be there for a few days hopefully staying with my friend Hannah, who's working there. And since my birthday is the 27th, it only seems fitting to celebrate my last night in NZ and just not go to sleep, then jump directly onto the plane. Oooh that's going to be so insane...

Okay! So, wwoofing this week (aka WEEDING, ewww, but I think it's going to be beautiful and I'll get to chant lots with my friend Olivia) then the SGI course next weekend (More chanting!) and then... travel! Must make the most of my time left, weeeeeeeeeeeeee!

Whyyyyy winter!?

It was FREEZING this morning! It was something like 2 deg celcius, gross! And having to work in it, rawr! I thought my hands and feet would fall off. Once the sun came up it was much better, and then it was hard to believe how cold it was before, but damn. Winter is seriously coming in. Brrr and grr.

Yes, I'm alive!

I fail at blog posts, greatest apologies.

Question... We don't have an "Easter Monday", right? Here in NZ, and apparently all over Europe, they get a long four day weekend, counting both Friday and Monday surrounding Easter as public holidays. It was kind of cool listening to the radio on Friday because there were no commercials...

I want everyone to know that I'm okay. I'm working on vineyards in this town called Blenheim, which is supposed to get the most sun-hours on the south island, but today it's grey and windy. It really feels like winter is setting in- the other night we had a joint birthday party and goodbye party for some of the long-term tennants and everyone was sitting outside in their wool caps with blankets over them. Brrr! I'm so NOT prepared for cold weather.

The other day we played soccer as a hostel at a park, and it was some of the most fun I've had in the weeks since Virginia left. I am in the middle of writing a long post about all our adventures, so everyone can read what I've been up to :) Basically, the week travelling was fantastic.

Vineyard work is tough- lots of bending over to see the grapes, which sit about waist height , and getting scratches all over your arms, and there's much more pressure to go quickly than doing kiwi fruit (think supervisors behind you going 'faster!') but it's slightly better than not working at all. At least we can eat the grapes off the vine, which are always really sweet, so it's tempting to eat them all the time but you have to refrain so you don't get a sick stomach... I'm working with some of the German girls from Opotiki, and one of my contractors had a bbq at his house, so there's defintely a level of comraderie on the field.

Sorry this is so brief! I am writing a longer one, as I said, so I hope to post that really soon! Love you all, AND SEE YOU MAY 28TH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Still feeling the waves

Good news, everyone! My passport arrived and I have it IN MY POSSESSION. Now all I have to do is get my work holiday visa transferred to the new number... weee.. But I was able to work for a week and a half in Blenheim on various vineyards, so I earned a little money.

My good friend Virginia arrived two days ago, and we were so happy to see each other! We met up in Picton, rented a car, and immediately drove to Motueka (I have to say V did a great job for her first time on the left side of the road... and these roads are nuts!) so that we could be close by to the Abel Tasman National Park for KAYAKING the next morning! (And at the backpackers in Motueka I ran into some friends from France that had lived in Opotiki with me back in January,also working on kiwi orchards, and they're now working on apple orchards..) On Friday morning V and I drove into the park and got a briefing on how to work the kayak, what to do if you capsize, getting out etc., and soon we were practicing in the water. We had to wear life jackets at all times on the water, and got to wear these really silly "skirts" made of wetsuit material that have elastic all around the sides so that when you sit in the hull the skirt acts as a barrier between your legs and the sea. I felt like half a person when it was all suited up, because you can only see your torso sticking out of the kayak!

There are several ways you can kayak the park, but we got dropped off up the coast and then we had two days to paddle back down to the starting point. There were these tractors that actually drive the boats with you and your kayaks into the water- so it was really hilarious that the tractors are driving around in the sea- and then the 'aqua taxi' dropped us off up the coast. We ate lunch, packed up the kayaks, and started our sea kayaking adventure. We first went to see Tonga Island off the coast, where there were these baby seals sunbathing on the rocks awwwww! The island itself was pretty cool- huge trees and ferns sticking out of massive granite bedrock. And the water was literally this turquoise color and super clear in a lot of places. Could see right into the bottom at sea stars hanging out on the rocks. We wanted to watch the seals forever but felt there was lots of the coast to see, so we moved on. We were really impressed by the coast line, it was unlike anything I'd seen even here in New Zealand- towering mountians covered in tons of different green trees right next to sheltered beaches. And the whole coast was speckled with these beaches. Really amazing. We were sitting out there going "Oooh pretty! That looks awesome! Caves, let's go play!" There was a lot of saying to each other "I can't believe this, it's so gorgeous!"

Our campsite, Mosquito Bay, which has nothing to do with the number of mosquitoes there, was only accessible by kayaking in. It was an awesome choice because it meant the beach was all the more secluded! We ducked in early because the wind was crazy, and played along the beach for the rest of the afternoon. And we saw a HUGE stingray swimming along the shore! I don't think I've seen one in the ocean before, so it was pretty surreal.
The difference between high and low tide was pretty significant too, the beach was hardly recognizable this morning. We came in at low tide and had to carry our kayak up the beach (we had help, it was sooo heavy with our stuff in it.. we could barely drag it ashore sometimes) but then this morning the water was right there so we just pushed off and went to check out the lagoons that form during high tide. It was really cool, the lagoon looked like something out of the amazon with all the strange trees and calm water. We went under a swingbridge and saw a crazy bird diving into the water over and over, it looked like he was having a great time.

That was the last of the calm water, the kayaking got really tough because the wind was RIDICULOUS. There were multiple times when we were rowing as hard as we could but felt like we didn't go anywhere. Definitely feeling the soreness. We had to stop many times for rests and when the wind is blowing right into you sometimes there's nothing you can do but wait a little while for it to die down. We wanted to go into another lagoon during high tide, but the wind was crazy ("I thought lagoons were supposed to be sheltered!") so we ditched it and found another small beach to have lunch on and played in one of the small caves before thinking, geez, we may not make it back down the coast in time for pick up if the wind keeps up. So we did a mad dash around the "mad mile" where the wind is always insane, and got through it surprisingly quickly. We finally made it to shore with much struggle because the wind was blowing right into us for a long time. We ate celebratory muesli bars and waited for the return tractor taxi back while the wind gave other kayakers a struggle...

I've discovered I'm sunburned on one little strip of my neck but other than that I am exhausted and elated that I got to see part of Abel Tasman! Though I didn't walk really any of it I still think it was incredibly beautiful and we saw it in such a cool way. We're headed to the Franz Joseph glaciers tomorrow for a half day hike on Monday... Then we're thinking Queenstown and a bus ride/boat tour of Milford Sound by Wednesday! I'm really happy to be with Virginia who is a big explorer at heart, so I think this is going to be a lot of fun. Of course I'll have to get back to the grind in about a week, but for now I'm just enjoying this time with her before she leaves. Until next time, remember to drink your water...

Drama of Identification

Hey everyone, so sorry that I just do not post lately. And don't worry, I'm fine, the tsunami only made small waves and nowhere near me. Beaches have closed for the day, stopped the ferries for 30 minutes in Auckland and Wellington, and apparently a nude photoshoot on a beach was postponed. But no one was hurt. Though apparently some people went down to the beach to look for waves, which maybe wasn't smart, but again, no injuries. Chanting for everyone's safety in Chile and Australia.

The latest ridiculousness has centered around my passport. I think I mentioned before that it got ruined a while back, like, you cannot see my face on it. Bug spray exploded in my backpack on a hike and ended its usefulness. Luckily I made a copy of it before the disaster, which enabled me to get into bars and work on the kiwi orchard, but it was necessary to get a new one for when I decide to leave the country.

I wanted to get this done in Wellington, and was told in the beginning of February at one of NZ's many I-sites (information centers) that the American Embassy is there, and so I'd be able to apply for it there. Sweet, I'm heading there anyway, I have friends that will let me stay in their flat. Cool, so I get to Welly over a weekend so I have to wait until Monday to get to the embassy. Monday I have to find the damn embassy (uphill and on a not-so accessible street) and it turns out it's a bloody holiday back in the states so they're closed. Oh, and by the way, we don't do passports anymore. You have to do that at the American Consulate in Auckland.

Wait, are you serious?
You DO realize, Wellington, that you are the CAPITAL of New Zealand. And you won't deal with passports?
Not anymore, Caitlin, we've decided that the Embassy will be for political issues and not so much for the general public. Auckland likes the fact that it's the biggest NZ city and figure since lots of people are there the passports will be better dealt with around more people...

Fuuuuuck.

So I have to make an appointment at the US Consulate and book a bus. The next available appointment was a WEEK later. So I have to wait a week before I can do anything about it. I get to spend time with my friends in Wellington (Simon and Amy from the UK, met them at Big Day Out, and their flatmate Laura, thank you so much!!!!) but in the back of my mind for the whole week I'm going "Damn, I'll have two 12-hour bus rides in 48 hours. This is going to suck. This whole situation sucks."
Long story short, I get to Auckland and apply for the new passport, no problems. It will take about 10 days for processing and they'll send it to my uncle in Nelson. I get to stay with my friend Helen again, and it's really good to see her. We talk over pizza, and I figure it's the last luxury I can afford, seeing as the passport cost $140. I get back on the bus the next morning and back to Wellington with the Brits.

I'm now back in the south island, in Blenheim, a town a few times bigger than Opotiki, yet just as small, looking for work on vineyards. I'm not as lucky as with the kiwi orchards, not to mention that even when I do find work I don't have a FREAKING PASSPORT because they had to take the damaged one. I did find a woman who said that I could just show my visa, so that's good, but she doesn't have all that much work at the moment, so I don't know how much money I can really make this week before my friend Virginia comes. It's all just so frustrating, it seems like nothing is going right on this leg of the trip. I wish that I could give you all a happier picture of what's going on, but I'm chanting and doing my best to stay positive, that it will all work out.

Still no word from the people hiring glacier tour guides. Sigh.

Hope to have happier news soon, like, I've hit the jackpot! And also want to update about my travels with my germans around the east cape and such... soon i hope! Love!!

I'll miss the smell of kiwi fruit in the mornings... NOT

Aaaaaand the moment you've all been waiting for: THE KIWI FRUIT THINNING BLOG!

Two weeks ago I wake up at 6 am to start working by 7am on a kiwi fruit orchard. And I'm told that everyone works 10 hour days. Wooooah. So, we work from 7-5:30, with two 15-minute "Smoko" breaks (from taking a smoke break, but we use it to refuel with food...) and a paid 30-min lunch. Yes, it is a long day. 10 hours is what you have to work, at $12.50 minimum wage, after taxes, to walk away with about $100 at the end of the day. I think out of the 12 days I worked, only 2 of them were ten hours, because the job is highly weather dependent. But even 8 hours of looking at kiwis all day is exhausting.

So, here's what we do: We stand under the kiwi vines, which is kind of like a canopy, so you kind of have to squat if the bay is too low. (the work area is set up in square bays, and many bays make up a row, and the set of rows make up a block, so the seven of us (six Germans and me) would work usually a row to ourselves, finishing a bay at a time, until the block was finished, then move onto another block.) You look at all the kiwis hanging down, for rows and rows and rows, and pick off all the "bad fruit". This is the fruit that doesn't look like what we see in the grocery store- perfectly oval, long kiwis. Turns out that kiwis can grow into all sorts of shapes, and this is pretty much what kept me slightly intrigued by the job after the first few hours. There are the kiwis that are too round or slightly square, but then there are crazy ones that look like pumpkins, or four leaf clovers, or decapitated snowmen, or Gonzo, or a bunny rabbit... seriously, we saw the weiiiirdest kiwis. We also had to take off ones that had 'hooks', which was like a little piece of peeling wallpaper that could break off in a crate of kiwis and make everything rot. Yeah, so thats bad and it needed to go. So if we see this bad fruit we need to drop it- which you cant do just by pulling, you kind of have to flick it from the vine, in a motion not unlike turning on a faucet.

We were all pretty amazed at how much fruit is left on the ground, it seemed really wasteful. We all wanted to know why we couldnt just let everything grow? But our boss says its not really up to them, its all of society that wants to buy a perfect kiwi or apple or whatever. And she's right to an extent- I know I look for the best bananas, but I also love getting big fruit, so I just wish we weren't conditioned to wanting to eat just one shape. Maybe an orange shaped like the White House would be hard to peel, but that would be so cool! I mean, in Japan they now engineer watermellon to be square, so, why not goofy kiwis?

The job is really weather-dependent. It rains a lot here, and if the vines are too wet, you cant work really, because you just get rained on every time you pick a kiwi, ugh. We often worked just 10 minutes drive by car (we carpooled from the hostel), but sometimes we would have to wake up at 5:30 to catch a 6:30 van to Edgecumbe, an hour away, to start work by 7:30. Going out to Edgecumbe always got us in a foul mood because we didnt get paid for the travel time, so could only work an 8 hour day when we always intended on working 10. But once youre out there youre stuck, so one day it starts pouring less than an hour into work, and we just had to stop until the rain did. But we didnt go home. Nope. We worked. And we all brought our rain coats but the water runs right down and onto your pants wherever the coat ends. So we all looked like we wet ourselves by the end of the day. The vines dry off within an hour of the rain stopping usually, as long as the sun comes out, but you're still soaked or really damp and unhappy for the rest of the day. Part of the joys of the job, I guess.

Thinning could be pretty nervewracking, though, because our boss, Rachel, would sometimes show up and look at the fruit we picked on the ground and come over with an armful of the good fruit that we had accidentally picked. For me, it was REALLY difficult to tell sometimes what was good and bad fruit- it seemed to look different on the vine than it did on the ground, and even sometimes on the ground I would argue that a fruit truly looked square to me. Rachel would always say 'If you're unsure, just leave it on the vine'. But then I would go too far and the next day she'd say I wasnt taking enough off the vine... argh! I just felt like I couldnt win! And honestly, by the fourth hour all the fruit started to look the same and it just felt so endless...

One day another supervisor actually had us do the fruit round up, where we went into each others' bays and do a line up of the good and bad fruits. On this day we all royally sucked and all of us had picked off waaaay too much good fruit. I didnt realize how bad it was- I just figured that because there was always tons of good fruit that would keep growing it wasnt a big deal, but our supervisor Penny let us know that if each of us in this one bay cost the orchard one tray of good kiwis picked too early, that could be as much as $20 in one bay alone. Multiply that by each bay in a row and all the rows in a block... it was not good. As bad as we felt, what it really did was help me to see how to look at the hanging kiwi fruit and make much better decisions about what was considered good or not, because I was honestly struggling with the work. I mean, this was a pretty boring job but we were making decisions the entire time so we really had to pay attention all day. But I WAS paying attention and still not getting it, so this day was really helpful. I actually wished we had done it sooner, because three days later we finished working...

And, truly, though it was boring, it could have been a much worse job. I was with really nice Germans (though some of them spoke German in front of me and then even the ones that were really great about speaking English to me and around me would sometimes respond in German and it was super awkward always asking whaaaaat or just feeling like I couldnt contribute to the conversation..) and our boss Rachel was really nice even when we sucked at the job. She would bring us treats a lot, like fresh watermelon and once she brought some smoked fish and pipis (mussels), and on a hot day she bought us ice cream cones, another day let us jump in the river with our clothes on, and on the last day she got us cream pastries. We loved her so much that we printed out a picture of all of us with the phrase 'Dont drop the good fruit!' and 'Kiwi Thinning Crew 2010' and all of our names signed on the picture frame. We brought it to her house and she was so pleased that she offered us all beer and showed us pictures of her daughter's wedding. She said we were like a second family, and reminded her of her daughters, so even though maybe we werent the best thinners she knew that we were earnestly trying and we were pleasant to talk to. She said we could come work for her come picking time again, and a few of the girls are keen to return, I think.

It's funny, I've actually kind of missed working this week. there was something nice about the comraderie of waking up at the crack of dawn and groggily eating cereal and getting together smoko snacks and lunch for the day, and tossing each other random siamese twin kiwis that we found in our bay throughout the day. Im FINALLY leaving Opotiki tomorrow, we all waited for some of the girls to get packages from home, and it was a mistake to not work because we're all living at the hostel but not working, and theres not much to do here. Or, like, really anything. We've watched a lot of movies and gone swimming in the river, and been to the beach a few times, but its really time to go. At least in the down time Ive applied for the GeoCorps program to be a summer tour guiding intern in the US National Parks, and I just sent in an application to work as a tour guide at the Franz Joseph Glacier on the south island, so the down time wasnt completely useless. But it still would have been nice to make money, even if it is, as the only other non-German in the hostel puts it, a shit job.
Hey, at least I have stories. And a new appreciation for perfect fruit. Now I can look at the kiwi fruit in the supermarket and say tsk tsk, this is a bad fruit! Or see that it was picked in NZ and say hey, I helped!

Germans!

I've said it before and I'll say it again, I'm pretty damn sure that there are no more Germans in Germany, because they all seem to be in New Zealand.

I currently live at Central Oasis Backpackers in Opotiki, because I am working on a kiwi orchard. Story for another blog. But almost the entire hostel is German: German owners, 8 long-term backpackers, and almost every night there are one or two more German backpackers that stay for just the night. Then there's me, the lone American, and it's the strangest thing to not speak the most spoken language in a backpackers in an ENGLISH SPEAKING COUNTRY. There's also Silvio, an Italian man that works on another orchard that stays here, and he speaks to me so thats nice. Not that the Germans don't talk to me or anything, I really like them! they just speak German to each other all freakin day and it gets a little frustrating, especially working on the orchard... There used to be another Italian, 2 French guys, and a Brazillian girl, but they all left for the East Cape on Monday, so Im stuck with all these Germans. And Silvio. And it's just funny.

We're all planning on caravaning to the East Cape next week, since we all really enjoy each other's company. Me and many Germans. Freddy swears they'll talk more in English, he's actually pretty upset that they're not trying harder to include me. He's so good to me. After the East Cape Freddy and I will stop by Napier/Hastings for a night, then down to Wellington for a while. It'll be my third time to Windy Welly, but it's okay since I didn't spend any time at the Te Papa museum, which deserves a full day. I will also have to deal with my ruined passport (bug spray exploded in my backpack on the Tongariro/Mt Doom trek, and you cannot see my face, it's completely blue. how pathetic. As my sister puts it "You really have no luck with passports, do you?" since this will be my second passport acquired abroad (my other was stolen in Argentina)) and my big backpack, whose zipper broke earlier this week (aaargh I just have no luck with THINGS! Did I mention my phone is broken too? argh argh argh) so I'll either have to get the zipper replaced or get a new backpack. But it shouldn't be too painful, and we'll get to stay with friends we met at Big Day Out, and then at some point I'll be headed to the south island again. Chances are Freddy and I will travel together until March, when he wants to start working as a fruit picker, and I'll want to start traveling with VIRGINA, who comes in that first week of the month, weeeeeeee! We're planning on doing all kinds of treks... tramping! Woo!

In my upcoming blog: all about kiwi fruit. Joy of joys.

Grumpy

I'll just say, for the record: Kiwi fruit sucks.

Big Weekend Out

Weds Jan 13: Travel from Nelson to Picton, then take the interislander ferry from Picton to Wellington. It's so sunny and I sit outside for a while taking pictures of the Marlbourough Sounds as we pass. I try to breathe in the fresh sea air, but it just smells like french fries. I read my awesome book. Arrive in Windy Welly around 9pm, share a taxi with two girls from the Netherlands into town. German friend Julia picks me up, after texting several times "I'm already drunk, and climbing up a mountain pretending to be Golem..." and we drop off my things in her room. It's surprisingly warm in Welly tonight, so I put on a dress and I'm completely fine. We walk to Mt Victoria, which has a gorgeous view of the city, and I meet some of Julia's Kiwi friends. We have a dance party waiting for other friends to join us. We go back to Julia's apartment for cookies and ice cream. Ugh, I've eaten crap all day, and I have no real food left, ugh, but it's soooo good. Julia wants me to stay out all night, it's already close to 11:30, but I push aside sleepiness to party. We hit up the Basement (bar under BASE hostel), The Library (REALLY awesome jazz club, but we missed the last set :( we get 2 for 1 drinks, several rounds of a delicious peach thing called a Sweetie Pie, and a "Randy Savage" which tastes like a gingerbread cookie) (also there are actually shelves with books on the wall, I like this bar and want to go back..) then 3 bars in a row for dancing, but around 1:11 am I'm exhausted and need to crash. Julia is disappointed, but we say we will get breakfast in the morning.

Thurs Jan 14: We wake up at 10, hoping to get out quickly, but it's after 11 when we finally leave the house, and we say we just need to go to the train station since my bus leaves at 12. It's half an hour's walk, and the weight on my back starts to make my arm go numb. But we get to the train station, my bus is at platform 9 (and there's a Platform 9 3/4 there!) and I see the girls from the taxi the night before. Say bye to J, and get some trail mix from the in-station supermarket, and start my long, hot journey on the bus to Rotorua. I talk to the girls from the taxi, they say they are headed to Taupo to do the Tongariro Crossing, and I tell them it's super awesome (I don't think I ever posted about that, did I? Some time I'll have to do a massive post with all the stuff I've forgotten to blog about...) and then they're headed to Auckland for a night and then off to Thailand. I am wanting to go with them. Meet Sean on the last leg of the bus ride (I'm sweating so badly by the 3rd hour, imagine hour 6...) who asks what I'm doing in NZ, and I say I've just applied to a job at the glaciers on the south island. "Aren't you going the wrong way?" he asks. "Yeah, but I'm going to Big Day Out." "REALLY? Me too!" and then we geek out about all the bands we want to see. He tells me about Kasabian, and I tell him about Girl Talk and Peaches, neither of which I've seen but have heard pieces of (thanks to Ben Sullivan and Lisa :D ). We part, saying maybe we'll see each other at Muse, but know we really won't.
I finally get to Rotorua, and text my friend Freddy "Smells like Rotorua!", because of all the sulfur in the air, yummmm eggs. He picks me up and we just rush each other in pure happiness that we get to meet again and FINALLY get to BIG DAY OUT! We get fish and chips and I feed him in the car. We catch up, only getting to tell each other parts of our stories since last we saw each other 2 months before, on Halloween. We also realize that we've only really known each other for like, 2 days, but we somehow feel like we've known each other forever. How cool is that, feeling like I've met my little brother, but he's German? Anyway, we pull into Mission Bay around 11:30pm, where our English friend Helen lives, on Komaramara Road (aaargh Maori street names!)- it's the rich part of town. She's snagged an amazing job in an architecture firm, and is renting in a GORGEOUS house. She has saved us some leftover BBQ from her friends that night, who came up from Wellington, also to go to the concert tomorrow. We are all ecstatic to see each other, I also saw Helen last on Halloween, but she and Freddy traveled together for several weeks, so it was less long for them. We go to bed (me sharing with Helen, Freddy on the floor) so excited for the next day.

FRIDAY JANUARY 15
OMG it's really here.
We wake up at 10 am, make pancakes (which are really crepes, but all those European-types call them pancakes..), take our time, and are eventually out the door just before 2pm, which was a little stupid since the concert started at 12pm. We don't make it to the stadium until after 3pm, and though we didn't miss anyone that we wanted to see, I still wish we had gotten up a little earlier so I could have checked out some bands I'd never heard of. Those are the best, sometimes, really. But, anyway, we figured we'd beat some of the crowds this way, so it wasn't terrible getting there by bus and train from Helen's house. We walked quite a ways, but the crowds weren't too massive. That is, until we get inside.

We are met by the fairgrounds of Big Day Out, and dear god is it big! 45,000 people. (Not sold out either- all the next BDO's in Australia are completely sold out... woah.) There are 7 stages, but the three main ones are in the center of the grounds.The Boiler Room is a big tent, where all the body heat gets trapped, and it's just a huge rave. The Orange and Blue stages are literally right next to each other on the field, and as soon as one band ends on Orange the next one starts on Blue. It's a pretty great system.

We wait in line to get "drinking age verified" wristbands, which I end up not even using because alcohol is expensive and very difficult to obtain (so many lines...), and head over to the Blue Stage to see Kasabian, who Sean had told me about. They were pretty good, and I wished that it wasn't so loud so that I could actually hear more of it. My Welsh roommate Gaz, from BASE, was already at the stage, and it was really good to see him again. Met his gf from Argentina, but there was no time for me to try to talk to her since it was loud and, well, I didn't really care right then about practicing mi espanol.
We parted at the end of the set because I wanted to head to the Boiler room for the end of Girl Talk and then stay on for Peaches right after. aaaaaaaaaaaah it was so amazing! I'm telling you, this stage was like a rave- the body heat was intense, and as soon as you step into the tent you're hit with a wave of sweat and hot people. You just get used to being kind of sticky, and it doesn't matter much where you end and the next person begins. Girl Talk is just one guy that does mash-ups of existing songs, so like putting Kelly Clarkson up with the beats of Usher, or 50 Cen't lyrics with Elton John in the background. It's insane! And really good. The whole crowd was rocking out, it was like 40 minutes of seamless dance music. And the guy was rocking out on stage too, pulled lots of people from the audience to dance on stage with him, and it was an amazing party. I would see him again in a heartbeat, a sweaty good time.
Peaches was CRAZY. She's what Lady Gaga wishes to be. She comes out covered in army netting so you can't see her face and does her first song completely covered, only her legs show. And her band is in this weird S&M get up so you can't see their faces either behind the leather strips... And she takes off the net after the first song and she's got like half shaved head and bleach blonde mohawk hair... she was nuts, and such a strong "EFF YOU" personality, and a good voice. Man hater rock. Kicking over monitors just because. I like that from time to time. Would definitely see her again. Only caught 3 songs because I had to pee, so i waited in line for the toilet, then waited in line for water, then waited in line for greasy food.

Then I braved the crowd to head down to the field, where I was meeting Freddy so we could camp out to see Muse at 9:15pm. It was about 6:30pm, but we knew eeeeeveryone was going to see Muse, so we needed to get our spots early. It was quite a mission to get there though; forging through the crowd was the most intense experience. It was literally a sea of people, and I couldn't move. I just moved my feet and moved with the crowd. Kind of like the EAC in Finding Nemo where the current just takes you along and then drops you off somewhere else... it was weird. Find Freddy and Helen and a bunch of friends of each, our "crew", and we head into Blue Stage.
Dizzie Rascal was playing on Orange, and the crowd was "Jump! Jump! Jump!"-ing like nuts. And they were wearing Lakers jerseys so I felt like I was in LA, which was surprisingly welcome. Lily Allen comes on from 7-8, and we were heading into Blue then, but for Muse, and I say "I hope no one thinks I'm heading in for Lily Allen..." We get jostled and squeezed through the turnstiles and into Blue stage, "Yes! We made it! Now we just hold our ground here and wait for Muse..." and had to try to creep around all the tall people. It ended up not being an issue, the crowd eventually settled into the right arrangement so that we could all see the stage.
Lilly Allen was...interesting. I don't love her music, I really can't stand the Cockney accent, but damn are her songs catchy. She was D-RUNK on stage, which I found disrespectful, but at least it was entertaining. She shows up in a pink dress, leaves in her hair (wood nymph attempt?) and these TALL black stilletos, which came off after only a few songs. And she lit up two cigarettes throughout her set. Whatever. I found myself amused from time to time, as she was stumbling all over the stage. And she would ramble on introducing her songs "So, this song is what you might dedicate to someone who's really pissing you off. A boss. A boyfriend or ex girlfriend. A best friend... whoever..." hahahaha you're wasted, Lily! I got Freddy on my shoulders at one point, that was kind of fun. Anyway, it just passed the time for us. Then Mars Volta played from 8-9, and I HATED IT. Noise, and not good noise. I sat down at one point because it was slightly quieter on the ground, all the people block some of the sound, and also I'd been on my feet all day. Again. Just passing the time. Freddy was freaking out, like, all day, but as we got closer and closer to the real show time, he was really wiggin. I mean, we all were.

And we had good reason to be.
Muse.
Was.
AMAZING.

wow wow WOW. AAAAAAAAAAH and the lead singer- best guitar player I've ever seen live. And he played the keytar and a white piano and just wow. Crazy jam sessions between the bassist and drummer. OMG the drummer was so so so so good. And they had LED screens behind them with incredible animations, and the best lightshow EVER. Man it was a good show. The crowd was so good too, you were literally lifted off your feet as everyone jumped in time to all the songs- don't fight it, just jump! I was smiling the entire time, so mesmerized by the music. I don't know Muse that well, but I deeeefinitely appreciated the music because it was gooooooooooooood. I thought Freddy was going to keel over with happiness. He was predicting which song they were gonna do next, and freaking out at the encore. At one point I had to SHUSH him because he was singing to every song and I'm going "Hey, I came here to hear Muse, not YOU!" but it was really adorable. And man, I can't say enough how good this show was. They were real musical entertainers, I would also see Muse again. "Why not play for two and a half hours, I mean, come on, it's not that long, I want more!" says Freddy, and I agree. It was 10:45 when they finished, and I was on a Muse-ical high. It was a great feeling, wow, what a day full of amazing music!

We caught the tail end of Groove Armada at the Boiler Room, but they ended 10 mins early which was pretty lame. We made the long trek back to the trains, and were cows in a herd again. We didn't get back to Auckland until around 1am, where me, Helen, and Freddy went to Globe Bar (site of Halloween) to meet up with friends from BASE that were leaving the next day on the Kiwi Experience bus. We only met up with one of them, which was too bad, and we got drinks and danced, but we were so tired that we didn't stay long. We got back to Helen's after 3am, and looked at pictures from their cameras and watched the videos Freddy took until 4:15am, when we finally had to turn out the lights, Freddy in the bed and me on the floor. We did not shower, we couldn't be bothered.

Sat Jan 16: Spend the morning lazily, Helen freaks out because her 3 friends from Wellington thought they could stay with her that night but she also told me and Freddy we could stay too. We tell her not to worry, we'll sort it out later. Spend the day with her buddies Simon, Amy, and James from the UK, and Simon is from Norwich, where Megan lives! So now I have two friends to visit :) Amy is from the North somewhere, and James actually moved to NZ when he was 7, so I guess he's sort of a Kiwi. We go back into Auckland and wander about while Freddy took care of some stuff online. We lounge in a park for a while. We go to dinner at BurgerFuel, which serves bonafide American-sized portions for a decent price, and are *almost* as good as California burgers, but not quite. Nothing beats Barneys. We head toward the water to this Mexican (?) bar, I get a beer and write a travel itinerary for Amy, who's headed to the states in a few months and wanted to know what to do. I tell her CA is the way to go, but maybe fly into New Orleans, rent a car, and then drive west toward the golden state, and spend time in SF and LA (to a lesser extent..). We all have a beer and then head back toward Mission Bay.

We exit the bus a little too far from Komaramara Road, so we decide to spend a little time on the beach. We look up at the stars and see the lights of Auckland, and we are all exhausted and fully happy from the weekend. It's a warm night with a breeze, and I'm so comfortable and delighted that I'm getting along with people again. Suddenly Freddy is stripping and running into the water, and it looks so refreshing that we all follow suit. The water was surprisingly warm, and I dive in with such joy, washing away all my worries. We can't believe we're all in our underwear in the water at like 11pm, and when we stop swimming around after a minute we're in a circle, shivering, and Simon's going "Right. Now what?" We put our clothes back on, and we all realize that we should have gone "Skippy Dinning" as Freddy calls it, because now our clothes are wet and sandy. Oh well, say la vie. We make the long walk back up K road, and once we're moving again it's not that cold, it's actually really nice. We consider crashing a party or two along the way. We see lots of churches ("Jesus can turn your EFIL around") and we finally tiptoe into Helen's place after midnight. We take off our clothes in the shower so as not to get sand everywhere. We put 4 on the floor and me and Helen sharing the bed, and I think to myself "Helen should start running a hostel from her room, and make more money!" We look over pictures from the day again, and marvel at how wonderful our weekend has been.

Sun Jan17 and beyond
I've spent about 2.5 hours online, talking to mom and dad, and updating le blog. Life is good.

Freddy has gotten me a job working with him on a kiwi farm, so I'm headed back to Opotiki, where I spent Thanksgiving, to do some orchard work! Just minimum wage, $12.50 an hour, but it will be really good to make some more money. I'll probably see Lynn again (who I wwoofed with), and we'll most likely be there for 2-3 weeks, then head down to the south island for travel. And maybe look for more permanent work, at least for me, since Freddy's been working for a few weeks now and has a bit saved up. I'm happy to be with my little German brother, we're having a great time! Hope you all enjoyed this long blog, hope to be online next weekend :) Love you all!!!

check out pictures from Big Day Out on my facebook, under "pictures of caitlin"! thank you Freddy!

I've paid for hostels 2 out of 10 weeks in NZ. Just a thought.

I do apologize for not having a consistent ability to update! I really should have bought a nice little laptop to bring with me, free wireless is fairly easy to come by in the south island. The smart travelers have the mini notebooks that weigh nothing. Oh well, next time i go to NZ I'll do that.

It's been very strange not sleeping under the same roof (or tent) as Jackie and Lisa. We broke off about a week ago when they found cleaning positions at a hostel in Nelson. There were only 2 available so Justin and I went to the International Rainbow Gathering 40km south of Murchison. That was really crazy. Stephen Bent, if you're reading this, you need to find a way to get to this some day, because it's right up your alley. At one point there was someone playing a banjo to my left and three jugglers to my right, with caves that people slept in front of me, and a tree house behind me. Music 24 hours a day, drum circles, guitars, flutes, violins, singing; fire dancing; general dancing. Communal meals at Food Circle 2x a day, where everyone holds hands and sings before eating. Beautiful walks to waterfalls. Very very nice people. A bonafide Hippie Gathering.

That was good, but there was lots of car trouble and shenanigans (ie leaving my guitar behind... goodbye Sunday for driving 3 hours each way...) and I've been staying at different hostels because the one J/L work out is super full all the time (curse you, Magic Bus!). Also dropped JLauf off in Christchurch, and had a very silly but fun time picking up hitch hikers for a few days. Not sure if I would want to go to Christchurch again, but there seem to be a LOT of cleaning jobs (work a few hours for accomodation, sometimes one meal a day) there, so I might be forced to settle there. Because now I'm thinking of settling somewhere. Dude, traveling is exhausting! I'm not as enthusiastic as I used to be about seeing things, I've really needed these past two days of basically doing nothing to recover, just so I can be my sunny self when I see my Germans :)

I've put in an application to work at a hostel in the Franz Joseph (glaaaaaaaaciers!), so if I go there I may be apart from the Oxy ladies for a long time. This job is asking for between 1 and 3 months commitment! Wouldn't that be so cool to be living near glaciers for, like, a quarter of a year? Since I'm also applying for the parks internship back in the US, it could be very useful. Especially if I can somehow weasel my way in as a park guide at the glaciers... mwahaha. I'm a little nervous about the internship, I don't know how they'll reach me, since I'm so far away and my phone is stupid. This is another good reason to settle somewhere, so there is a landline that they can contact me on...

These are all things I cannot fix by thinking about them. I've taken that first step and I just have to wait for a response. If I hear none, then I keep looking. So no big deal! I'm very excited for my concert, I hope to update this weekend or early next week to let you all know about it! Hope everyone is doing well, enjoying their New Year and January.

Songs in my head will get annoying

I decided not to buy Jackie's iPod, so on this morning's run I listened to the last of her tunes. I dropped off my guitar and a small bag with my growing rock collection off at Brady's to keep for the week. Because... I'm headed back to the north island!

It's going to be quite a mission. Weds: 2pm- bus from Nelson to picton. 6pm- ferry from Picton to Wellington. 9pm-arrive in Wellington, hang out with German friend Julia and sleep on her floor (and maybe actually get to experience Welly nightlife, seeing as the last time we were there the town was dead) Thurs: 12pm-bus from Welly to Rotorua. 7pm-drive with other German friend Freddy to Auckland. 10pm- attempt to crash on someone's floor.

FRIDAY: BIG DAY OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've been planning this, no joke, since my second day in New Zealand. I. Cannot. Wait.
It's much less the concert itself, and more the seeing friends from over 2 months ago. I really feel like i've made good friends here, not just the cordial hellos that I've been exchanging with everyone lately because I'm so exhausted. I think it's indicative of my travel exhaustion. I'm going on 10 weeks now... holy moly.

Started reading a Nevada Barr book about a park ranger. Even within the first 20 pages there's so much reference to geology and it makes me happy.
I'm applying for some jobs to try to extend my stay by increasing my wealth :) Wish me luck!

Ummmmmmmmmm.... hope to post soon? But will never promise, sorry.